O-Ya

There’s been a lot of buzz lately about a dark sliver of a Japanese restaurant called O-Ya, and a recent visit confirmed that with this one, you’ve gotta believe the hype. I had read reviews from what I thought were fanatical diners who would go in once, then cancel reservations at another restaurant for the following night and return, less than 24 hours after paying the tab, right back to O-Ya. But it's really that good. Just a short walk from South Station in what’s known as the Leather District, O-Ya is run by a husband and wife team: he’s the chef, she’s the sake sommelier. Both logged time in Japan and he seemed to have soaked up that country’s affinity for food that has a perfect mixture of precision, elegance, funk and delight and she is well steeped in sake knowledge as the list features selections that stumped and delighted my sake-knowing dining companion. (There’s a great wine list as well, but the sake feels like the When in Rome... thing to do).

The menu is long but enthralling, and it's based on the omikase style of dining. It consists of myriad small plates, each a little universe unto itself. I won’t discuss specific dishes because half the fun is discovering the menu for yourself. The owners told me diners take the paper menus home and bring them back on future visits in order to eat the dishes still untried. It’s like a dreamy gustatory to-do list.

The preparation of the dishes, the creativity, attention to minute detail, and an utter refusal to rush any part of the cooking process (something you don’t often see in the States) all add up to what has been my most dazzling meal of the year. I can’t wait to go back and then go back the next night.

O-Ya 9 East St Boston, MA 02111 (617) 654-9900

Tour de France Tasting Tour

Tour Drinkers

World-class cycling and wine-growing are two badges of honor for the French, as they are both part of the country’s identity. In fact, in days of old, riders of the Tour de France were provided with wine along the grand route to ‘nourish’ them and keep their spirits up during the grueling three weeks of riding. With the Tour de France well underway this year, we have been recalling a great visit to France for the Tour in 2002. While following in the mountain stages in the Alps and Lance Armstrong’s fourth Tour victory after a time trial win in Macon, we were fortunate enough to experience the local wines in each region. Whether enjoying a five course meal with a notable bottle Chignin-Bergeron from the Haute Savoie region by the Lac d’Annecy or sipping on a bottle of Macon-Villages table wine with local cheeses and meats on a baguette along the course, the wines of France added to our festivities as well as our cultural education along the way. What we have discovered in the years since is that the Tour makes for some great wine-tasting, even from our home here in the States. A wine map of France coupled with a map of the Tour makes for an easy guide to tasting your way along the Tour, a truly fun way to stretch your knowledge of French wines and introduce your palette to some new favorites.

For example, this year’s Tour began in England, one of the top countries to import French wines. After a time trial in London and the first road stage to Canterbury, the Tour moved to the European continent to begin a clock-wise tour of France. The cold weather wine-producing areas were the first on this year’s Tour, with an early stage from Belgium through the Champagne region, home to world renowned sparkling wines made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. Riders then cycled through Chablis and the heart of the Burgundy region, known for both whites and red wines, also made with the above noted grapes. The TV race commentators even referenced team celebration of a stage win with a great bottle of local Chablis.

From Burgundy, the Tour heads to the Alps, and then on to the southern climes with the Cotes du Rhone region’s reds made from Syrah and Grenache grapes, front and center, followed by the reds and whites of Languedoc-Rousillon on the Mediterranean Sea, featuring Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay grapes. As the Tour heads north toward Paris, riders will skirt the Bordeaux region adding Cabernet Franc and Semillon to the list. Once back in the summer heat of Paris, riders and spectators will no doubt enjoy some of the famous white wines of both the Loire Valley, Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc, and Alsace Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Gewurztraminer, even though these wine-growing areas of France were not included in this year’s Tour.

So, go visit the French section of your local wine shop, armed with a map of the Tour de France (www.letour.com), and you too can enjoy these famous old world wines. Just don’t drink and ride!

Hats off to the All American 'Lob-stah Roll'!

As you disembark the plane at Boston’s Logan International you can feel your mouth salivating for one of Massachusetts’ famed lobster rolls, or in the native tongue of a true Bostonian “Lob-stah” roll.

After years of following my husband’s lead to find the perfect hot dog (which of course, would be the original Gray’s Papaya, it’s all in the bun), we decided that the culinary focus of this vacation would be to find the perfect lobster roll in and around Cape Cod. Or at least we would master how to make the perfect lobster roll

We had our long standing favorite lobster roll from the reliable Squire in quaint (and preppy) Chatham. Side track: Chatham is the quintessential Cape Cod town with its white picket fences, bandstands, some kitschy galleries and lot of gingham and madras patterns on the natives. But I digress, back to the lobster roll quest. The lobster roll at the Squire does not try to be anything more than a simple lunch item, albeit expensive. It is served on a plastic basket lined with wax paper with chips on the side. The soft hot dog bun has uncrusted sides, traditionally you are supposed to butter and toast the side of the bun but I tend to think it ruins the succulent taste of the lobster meat. The Squire seems to agree and they too leave the bun untoasted. As for the lobster meat, they have nice chunks of lobster with about two tablespoons of mayonnaise combined with some chopped celery and salt and pepper. So simple but so good but NOT a “cheap eat” at $17.95. I’d like to see Rachael Ray try to eat her way through the Cape on $40 a day! Obviously we had to have a point of comparison so we tried a couple more rolls on the Cape. Cook’s in Orleans, another Cape town just 5 minutes from beautiful Nauset Beach, is far more traditional. Traditional in this sense means grease and fried bread. Not my style, however the lobster was excellent but I found the combination with the grilled buttered bun to ruin the delicate lobster flavors. A little cheaper than the Squire at $14.95.

To be honest, I was a little disappointed in some of the other rolls that were either grilled with butter or the soft bun quickly became soggy from too much mayo. By the way, this is one of the major reason restaurants grill the bun. With that said, I decided it was my turn to attempt a version of the lobster roll. For a first try, it wasn’t bad and I added a secret ingredient (cayenne). Here’s my recipe for 2 lunch sized lobster rolls.

Ingredients: - 2 lobster tails (the best meat) not cut but torn into bite size pieces - 1 stick of celery finely chopped - 3 tbs canola mayonnaise (it’s better for you) - Pinch of Cayenne - Squeeze of one lemon - Pinch of Maldon salt and freshly ground black pepper - 2 Fresh hot dog buns with uncrusted sides

Directions: To make the lobster salad combine the bite size lobster pieces, celery, mayonnaise, cayenne, lemon, salt and pepper. Refrigerate for 2 hours. When ready, place lobster mixture in soft bun and serve with cracked pepper. For garnish, place on white plate with salt and vinegar potato chips and celery sticks.

Joel Robuchon at the Mansion (Las Vegas)

Fancy dinners are always a risk. After making reservations months in advance, reading numerous reviews, and spending the afternoon deciding what I'm going to wear, it is impossible for me not to get excited about the dinner. And all that excitement can easily lead to disappointment if the restaurant does not live up to my high expectations. Luckily, during my trip to Las Vegas last weekend, neither Guy Savoy nor Joel Robuchon at the Mansion let me down. While both dinners were quite good (and not dumbed-down for the Las Vegas crowd at all), my meal at Joel Robuchon completely blew me away. 

Joel Robuchon managed a perfect balance between trendy art-deco decor, seriously good food, and a special occasion atmosphere without being stuffy at all. The meal actually started on a low note with an amuse bouché of lackluster sangria granita served over smoking dry ice. Thankfully, I was not able to lament the pointless theatrics of the dish for very long before the bread cart arrived and I was distracted by the numerous options. From the first bite of my gruyere mini baguette on, my meal was almost flawless.

My favorite course of the night was the lobster 'ravioli' which were served as small piles of lobster with thinly sliced turnips draped over them so that they looked like little raviolis. The dish was bright, fresh, and allowed the seasonal ingredients to shine. The dishes that followed were all incredibly impressive as well a pea soup poured over a savory flan with pancetta, perfectly cooked halibut with zesty lemongrass flavoring, and slices of tender pan-fried veal. My meal ended with a dessert of chocolate ice cream topped in a large puff of lime cotton candy and of course the obligatory petit four cart (with plenty of smooth, dark chocolates).

Joel Robuchon may come very close to the line of overdoing the presentation of their dishes, but they almost never cross it. More importantly, the dishes not only looked pretty, but there was substance, complex flavors, and high quality ingredients in each one. As a parting gift we were given a loaf of lemon pound cake that I am still enjoying toasted with ice cream five days later. I don't think I'll be going back to Las Vegas anytime soon, but I know for sure where I'll be eating next month in London!

A Day in Washington Wine Country

As I drive East on Highway 12 it hits me that I am definitely back in the country. As far as the eye can see there are rolling hills spotted by wheat fields and vineyards. The air just feels cleaner already, and although I love my new home in San Francisco it does feel great to be back in Washington Wine Country.

I meet up with my brother and we head out to the airport to do some wine tasting. We head over to see an old friend, Zach at Syzygy. He has sold out of his current wines, so his tasting room is closed, he is taking a little breather before Spring Release, scheduled for the first weekend in May. He invites back into his barrel room to taste the wines he has recently blended. With an evil grin on his face he asks us to guess what the blend is… I am stumped until finally he admits it is a Malbec/Tempranillo/Cab blend, can’t wait for this one to be on shelves!

We stop by Walla Walla Roastery to grab an espresso. We talk with Jesse who tells us all about the different kinds of coffee they roast, and then takes us in the back to see the air roaster they use. It is nudged in between huge garbage pails of raw coffee beans from all over the world. Much like wine these are supplied through a broker. He tells us that smaller coffee companies such as theirs actually have more of an advantage because they can import the smaller crops of coffee beans, and pick really cool and fun new beans without having to worry about future availability or consistency. We are then invited to come with the coffee guys to skate the vert ramp they have in an old airplane hangar across the street, but alas, we are late to meet friends for lunch and have to head downtown.

The sun is out and we sit on the deck at Luscious by Nature, the newest café in town with friends Dawn and Mary of Dama Wines. I have an amazing grilled cheese sandwich and we all order “Dunham” sized glasses of hard cider made in Milton Freewater by the Blue Mountain Cider Company. I suggest trying their semi-dry if you get a chance, delicious and crisp, this makes the perfect afternoon drink for summer.

Next we are off for a tour at Northstar Winery where I am able to try an array of wines and view the facility. Crush is long gone, and the tourist season is not yet in full force, so the winery is quiet on a Sunday. My brother leads a tour with Myles Anderson’s class from the Walla Walla Community College department of Enology and Viticulture.

After a short rest, we are off to Creektown Café for dinner. We run into old friends, and have a stunning meal. The duck is amazing, and pairs well with the Northstar Walla Walla Valley Syrah we have brought with us. Amazing as usual, this small restaurant has been a local favorite for years. So nice to be home, a perfect day of wine, food, and friends in Walla Walla.