Wine Columns for Week of May 2

Yesterday's NYT Style Magazine featured a provocative joint disposition against terroir by Harold McGee and Daniel Patterson (of Coi and the infamous "To the Moon, Alice?" piece). It begins somewhat reductively -- taking as its starting point that the notion of terroir means very literally tasting rocks in a glass of wine -- but it comes to an admirably poised conclusion that manages to balance a humanistic compassion for local growing with a rejection of terroir's suspicion of human intervention:

Scientists and historians continue to illuminate what Peynaud described as the 'dual communion' represented by wine: "on the one hand with nature and the soil, through the mystery of plant growth and the miracle of fermentation, and on the other with man, who wanted wine and who was able to make it by means of knowledge, hard work, patience, care and love. 'Somewhereness' is given its meaning by 'someoneness' in our time, by the terroirists who are working hard to discover and capture in a bottle the difference that place can make.

For some interesting parallels and tangents, take a look also at Tim Teichgraeber's article about wine consultants in the SF Chronicle. And for a more lighthearted read, try Eric Asimov and his 80 (gin) martinis. I hope they were using spit buckets...

Joel Robuchon at the Mansion (Las Vegas)

Fancy dinners are always a risk. After making reservations months in advance, reading numerous reviews, and spending the afternoon deciding what I'm going to wear, it is impossible for me not to get excited about the dinner. And all that excitement can easily lead to disappointment if the restaurant does not live up to my high expectations. Luckily, during my trip to Las Vegas last weekend, neither Guy Savoy nor Joel Robuchon at the Mansion let me down. While both dinners were quite good (and not dumbed-down for the Las Vegas crowd at all), my meal at Joel Robuchon completely blew me away. 

Joel Robuchon managed a perfect balance between trendy art-deco decor, seriously good food, and a special occasion atmosphere without being stuffy at all. The meal actually started on a low note with an amuse bouché of lackluster sangria granita served over smoking dry ice. Thankfully, I was not able to lament the pointless theatrics of the dish for very long before the bread cart arrived and I was distracted by the numerous options. From the first bite of my gruyere mini baguette on, my meal was almost flawless.

My favorite course of the night was the lobster 'ravioli' which were served as small piles of lobster with thinly sliced turnips draped over them so that they looked like little raviolis. The dish was bright, fresh, and allowed the seasonal ingredients to shine. The dishes that followed were all incredibly impressive as well a pea soup poured over a savory flan with pancetta, perfectly cooked halibut with zesty lemongrass flavoring, and slices of tender pan-fried veal. My meal ended with a dessert of chocolate ice cream topped in a large puff of lime cotton candy and of course the obligatory petit four cart (with plenty of smooth, dark chocolates).

Joel Robuchon may come very close to the line of overdoing the presentation of their dishes, but they almost never cross it. More importantly, the dishes not only looked pretty, but there was substance, complex flavors, and high quality ingredients in each one. As a parting gift we were given a loaf of lemon pound cake that I am still enjoying toasted with ice cream five days later. I don't think I'll be going back to Las Vegas anytime soon, but I know for sure where I'll be eating next month in London!

A Day in Washington Wine Country

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As I drive East on Highway 12 it hits me that I am definitely back in the country. As far as the eye can see there are rolling hills spotted by wheat fields and vineyards. The air just feels cleaner already, and although I love my new home in San Francisco it does feel great to be back in Washington Wine Country.

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I meet up with my brother and we head out to the airport to do some wine tasting. We head over to see an old friend, Zach at Syzygy. He has sold out of his current wines, so his tasting room is closed, he is taking a little breather before Spring Release, scheduled for the first weekend in May. He invites back into his barrel room to taste the wines he has recently blended. With an evil grin on his face he asks us to guess what the blend is… I am stumped until finally he admits it is a Malbec/Tempranillo/Cab blend, can’t wait for this one to be on shelves!

We stop by Walla Walla Roastery to grab an espresso. We talk with Jesse who tells us all about the different kinds of coffee they roast, and then takes us in the back to see the air roaster they use. It is nudged in between huge garbage pails of raw coffee beans from all over the world. Much like wine these are supplied through a broker. He tells us that smaller coffee companies such as theirs actually have more of an advantage because they can import the smaller crops of coffee beans, and pick really cool and fun new beans without having to worry about future availability or consistency. We are then invited to come with the coffee guys to skate the vert ramp they have in an old airplane hangar across the street, but alas, we are late to meet friends for lunch and have to head downtown.

The sun is out and we sit on the deck at Luscious by Nature, the newest café in town with friends Dawn and Mary of Dama Wines. I have an amazing grilled cheese sandwich and we all order “Dunham” sized glasses of hard cider made in Milton Freewater by the Blue Mountain Cider Company. I suggest trying their semi-dry if you get a chance, delicious and crisp, this makes the perfect afternoon drink for summer.

Next we are off for a tour at Northstar Winery where I am able to try an array of wines and view the facility. Crush is long gone, and the tourist season is not yet in full force, so the winery is quiet on a Sunday. My brother leads a tour with Myles Anderson’s class from the Walla Walla Community College department of Enology and Viticulture.

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After a short rest, we are off to Creektown Café for dinner. We run into old friends, and have a stunning meal. The duck is amazing, and pairs well with the Northstar Walla Walla Valley Syrah we have brought with us. Amazing as usual, this small restaurant has been a local favorite for years. So nice to be home, a perfect day of wine, food, and friends in Walla Walla.


Wine Columns for the Week of April 18 and 25, 2007

Temperatures have been rising in recent wine columns. A seemingly harmless piece on baseball stadia a couple of weeks ago incited one loyal SF Chronicle reader to write a rather extraordinary invective against a SF Chronicle columnist's percieved condescension. In a letter piquantly entitled "Get a life, you snot-nosed snob," Jerold H. Rekosh lambasts the writer's "snot-nosed, snoblike attitude toward the grape." He continues, "I do not know what you are other than a baseball junkie and an underpaid staff writer for the finest newspaper in the West." (And as if to redress Rekosh's searing missive, the rest of this week's Chronicle devotes its attention to the rather more tepid intricacies of AVAs -- focusing particularly on Paso Robles.)

Given the current swelter, it's not particularly surprising that high-acid Rieslings and austere Sancerres and Chablis are among the wines being touted by wine writers. The heat might even have gotten to one particular columnist, who feverishly suggests Campari mixed with soda as her wine of the week. Finally, a front-page article in the WSJ on the fervid cult of Screaming Eagle is also worth pointing out.

Rethinking Pet Food

By Olga

One of the greatest aspects of life in the Bay Area is how conscious many residents are about what they eat...not just for health reasons but for a wider concern about who grows and raises their food, and how, in the case of livestock, the animals are treated. I had considered myself to be a pretty conscious and conscientious consumer when it came to choosing foods that were both healthful and humanely and sustainably harvested. I embraced Hippocrates proclamation of ‘let your food be your medicine’ and took very seriously Marrion Burros’ New York Times article in which she argued for the importance of local food over even organic [a revelation to me at the time]. Then with the recent troubling developments with commercial pet food, I began to think about what effect buying and feeding supermarket dog food had on both the environment, the animals whose parts are used for this food and of course on my dog. Its no secret that conditions are grim for animals who are raised for food in industrialized facilities. While the so-called ‘good’ parts go to supermarkets and restaurants of all levels, do the odd cuts then get processed into pet food? Thus by purchasing name brand pet foods are we supporting some cruel farming practices? I don’t know and I don’t claim to here...I’m just wondering aloud. And what about the nutritional value to our pets of feeding them food with preservatives?

While I don’t know the conditions surrounding the raising of the animals used in pet food, I do know, at the other end of this particular food chain, that for my dog’s whole life, most of the food she’d been given was from a can or a bag that has a frighteningly long shelf life; she had never been fed fresh foods. For that matter, she hadn’t been fed any vegetables, just meat and whatever is in her kibble.

So recently I found a few great solutions to feeding my dog, Lucy, a 10 year-old Shar-pei mix. This being the Bay Area, there’s a meat purveyor called Prather Ranch (www.pratherranch.com) which is Certified Humane by the much-needed and pioneering group, Humane Farm Animal Care (www.certifiedhumane.com). Prather insures that all of the animals they sell are not only raised and fed humanely but are humanely ‘processed’ (as they say in the industry) as well. Prather sells (for $4/lb) ground up odd cuts of beef that are not for human consumption, but that make great pet food. I serve some to Lucy every evening with her old kibble, in hopes of all together once I get organized and start steaming brown rice. I know there’s debate on whether or not raw foods are the best option for your pet. And I’m not someone who believes in pampering pets with extravagant foods. However, it just seems natural to feed a dog a bit of raw meat with some good complex carbohydrates.

Vegetables: I had no idea my dog even liked them until, as an experiment, I started feeding her the discarded stems of my spring asparagus. She loved them. She eats grass in the park so it only makes sense that she’d like veggies. Another hint that she would have liked vegetables is that she often raids the compost bin. I know ‘yuck’ but she’s an animal after all, and clearly an omnivore.

If anyone out there has thoughts on how to feed pets in accordance with goals of sustainability and the humane treatment of all animals, I’d love to hear from you.

Slow Club

By Kimberly

After a positive experience last week, I decided to brave another restaurant that does not take reservations. I had always wanted to try Slow Club but I had previously been put off by its unfamiliar location and rumors of long waits for tables. I decided the safest time to visit was a weekday afternoon, and last Friday I finally got the perfect opportunity. Slow Club's sleek, minimalist decor manages to at once be very chic and at the same time fit in with the surrounding industrial area. Although the restaurant was quite crowded with Slow Club's eclectic patrons, my friend and I were lucky enough to get seated immediately. For lunchtime it was quite loud despite the purple velvet curtain which lines one wall and must muffle some of the noise. I can only imagine that at night, when there is a packed bar, it must be pretty difficult to hear your companion across the table.

While I could have ordered most of the menu (and have heard raves about the burger), we decided to split the pork loin sandwich ($9) and the salad with mahi mahi ($13.50). The pork sandwich came on a deli roll with a truffled creme fraiche, arugula, swiss cheese, and grilled onion. There was a little too much bread for me, but when I removed the top bun and added some of the lightly dressed side salad, the sandwich became phenomenal. Seriously, I was quite annoyed when I remembered I had agreed to split and could only eat half of the sandwich.

The mahi mahi salad was prepared with spring greens, kalamata olives, feta cheese, cous cous, red onions, red wine vinaigrette, and large grilled strips of fish. The amount of dressing was perfect (no soggy greens!) and the cous cous added a surprising and interesting texture. The salad was actually quite a nice light, fresh accompaniment to the more substantial pork sandwich. We didn't have time for dessert, but we both agreed it was worth a return trip. While I am not giving up my OpenTable VIP status anytime soon, I am definitely going to continue trying out restaurants without reservations. Next on my list: Burma Superstar!