Wine Columns for the Week of March 23, 2007

If there is a wine-producing country on Earth more exciting than Spain, with more palate-thrilling wines at every price point, I have not found it.

Paul Gregutt's bold declaration in this week's Seattle Times strikes a chord with a few of his more eminent colleagues. In the NYT, Eric Asimov lauds Navarre's renaissance, while Tim Teichgraeber - writing from Santiago de Compostela, no less - snags another front page byline in the Chronicle's wine section with a devout tribute to Albariño.

It's worth remarking on recent changes at the Washington Post. In perhaps the most significant addition to a major food section since Harold McGee joined the NYT, the Post has recruited Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg (Becoming a Chef, Culinary Artistry, etc.) for a lively new wine column. With their new book hot off the presses, it's a particularly astute move. (Although I'm not quite sure where this leaves the reliable - perhaps too reliable - Ben Giliberti.)

As a further sign of the resurgence of spirits, the Post has also appointed a biweekly Spirits columnist in Jason Wilson. His article on vermouth is a good start -- and if nothing else, he has catchy headlines.