Q & A with TJ Evans: A Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir tastes like a Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir

Domaine Carneros is a well known sparkling wine Estate, has this shaped any part of the still Pinot Noir program?My tutelage while working with Eileen Crane at a sparkling wine property has been instrumental in the development of our still wine production. With that said, Domaine Carneros has four estate ranches and 300 acres are planted exclusively for still Pinot Noir production- and that always has been the case. The Pinot Noir program was not born out of sparkling, but rather conceived due to the potential of the vineyard site from the very beginning.

Why were you drawn to Carneros to make Pinot Noir? Carneros speaks to my mission in winemaking; it has immense potential, but needs a winemaker to help coax it out. The Carneros climate is ideal for Pinot Noir grape growing. The long, moderately cool growing season tempered by the maritime breezes and lingering fog of the San Pablo Bay provides optimum conditions for slow, even ripening in Pinot Noir. But beyond the physical reasons, Carneros has never really provoked the fanaticism that other regions have. I’m excited by that. I want people to taste the Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir and say “these wines just keep getting better and better.” I believe that the things I’ve learned- the lessons, the trials, the experiments, the crazy leaps of faith- they are all part of learning what Carneros wants to do.

What is it about Pinot Noir for you? Making Pinot Noir is hard; you have to get everything right. It takes a lot of patience and experimentation before you know you are even getting 50% right. I’ve been trying for 15 years. But what I love about it, is to do it right you have to spend the time in the vineyards, you have to get out of the truck. Pinot requires a winemaker to be devoted to working with the land, the climate, the people, it requires someone with patience, and someone that is truly excited about what can be produced. Winemakers move around, they chase hot spots, hot varietals, but I can’t imagine not making Pinot Noir.

Would you consider Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir a New World or Old World style? To be honest, I'm tired of the critic's preconceived "darling" Pinot regions and their need to categorize different styles of Pinot Noir making. I don't feel that California Pinot Noir should be justified by its likeness to Burgundy. My time spent in the northern Rhone taught me a lot about how different CA is to France, and why people can’t compare the two in the same way. While working in the Rhone my biggest challenge was how to balance the immense amount of natural acid. You find yourself adding sugar. While in California, as a winemaker you often add tartaric acid, because the grapes’ natural acidity is so low. So, to answer your question, I consider Domaine Carernos Pinot Noir to be in the Carneros style.

What elements of the Domaine Carneros Estate add to the uniqueness of your Pinot Noir? The clonal diversity on the Estate offers a palate of flavor, texture, complexity and aromatics with which to work with while blending. Take for instance a well-known and loved Pinot region like the Russian River Valley, predominantly only two different clones are used there: 667 & 777. In Carneros over 15 different clones are planted on the Domaine Carneros Estate. Also, the history of organic and sustainable farming at Domaine Carneros has resulted in exceptionally healthy vines. 100% of all Estate vineyards at Domaine Carneros have been certified organic by the CCOF. Our vineyard manager, Roberto Gonzales, has managed the vineyards at Domaine Carneros for 23 years. He knows the vineyards better than anyone in the company and is a constant resource to me.

You mentioned earlier that experimentation and crazy leaps of faith are helping you learn what Carneros is capable of. Are you willing to share any of your discoveries? I love to whole cluster press- it adds an exotic spiciness that I think Pinot Noir benefits from and needs. However, the stems in Carneros don’t get ripe enough to add all the most desirable characteristics of whole cluster pressing. So I experimented with de-stemming each cluster and I allowed the stems to sun ripen separately. Each day I soaked the stems and tasted their readiness, and then added them back in. I was once told experiments like these make up the difference between a man who is just making Pinot and man who is obsessed with the Pinot he is making.

TJ Evans in the hot chair

Oakland Fires Up the Burners

Being a Bay Area resident, one learns quickly that more than any other cultural obsession be it music, fashion, politics, San Francisco is a food town first and foremost. And while San Francisco certainly can claim the title of one of the leading culinary towns in the country, nearby Oakland across the bay has recently come on the scene with exciting restaurants popping up like porcini after a fall rain. Ever since my New York days when I'd take a subway two hours out of Manhattan for killer Moroccan food, or my college days in Washington DC when I got to know all four quadrants of the city in my culinary quests, I've always been eager to venture afar in the name of gastronomy. Recently, I met up with my friend super star (literally) chef Rick Corbo who is laying out plans for his restaurant Pizzeria Zanna Bianca in Jack London Square, opening next year, and decided that it was time to see for myself what all the fuss is about. Like movie reviews, if enough friends tell me to see a certain flick, then it's a go. In the case of Oaktown, which is its local nickname, there were far too many signs telling me to head east young woman.

One Friday recently I rounded up the food-obsessed team at Charles Communications and after taking polls with my foodie friends, we drew up a short list. Ably guided by Oakland resident expert and green guru Anna Hartman, we set off for a culinary treasure hunt. First on the list was Bocanova, a pan Latin restaurant right on Jack London Square that serves a menu inspired by the heritage of the kitchen crew featuring dishes from Mexico to Argentina, infused with California accents. Although the interior beckoned with its warm colors and rustically elegant decor, we opted to sit outside on a cloudless day, and enjoyed halibut ceviche, roasted sunchokes, plantains stuffed with queso fresco, and Huarache with pumpkin, bacon and sage. Huaraches have become one of my favorite Mexican dishes since I moved to San Francisco, it's a fried masa base with a variety of toppings and is so called as it resembles the shape of a sandal aka huarache in Mexico. The fairly priced wine list with mainly Spanish and South American offerings gave us tempting choices to pair.

Flora was our next stop, formerly the Oakland Floral Depot building, an Art Deco landmark located on Broadway across the street from the newly renovated Fox Theater, another great Deco building in its own right, another of my favorite features about this town. There's an old world glamour about Oakland which has a more human scale with its architecture, and the spirit of creativity is alive and vibrant. It reminds me of the way New York was in the mid 80s when the restaurants were packed with creative people of diverse backgrounds all sharing great food in a convivial way. Flora in particular reminds me of New York's Odeon back in the day, both design and vibe wise. We tried the Yellow Tailed sashimi with hot chili oil, seabeans, sesame seeds, scallions and radishes, the arugula, dried Calimyrna figs, fennel, and toasted almond salad, a killer sandwich of seasonal grilled persimmon, Explorateur brie, swiss cheese on a French baguette and a glass of Bandol rose, pretty heavenly.

The next stop given the gorgeous weather, and our need for a break from sampling so much good eats, was a stop at the newly renovated Lake Chalet, right on Lake Merritt which is a unique given that it is the largest lake within an urban area in the U.S., 3.4 miles around, covering 155 acres in downtown Oakland. It's ringed with lights giving it a holiday and European atmosphere year round. The same folks who renovated the Park and Beach Chalets in San Francisco are behind this project housed in the old municipal boathouse and there are a number of choices from casual to fine dining within the complex. Much like the other Chalets in the group, they brew their own beers on premise and have a solid but unadventurous menu. I wasn't overly impressed with our service which was less than attentive, as the outside bar area was geared to those who wanted to see and be seen, but it's probably a fun place for big groups.

Our last stop was Zza's Trattoria also on Lake Merritt, right on Bellevue Avenue. Zza's is a nickname for Morezza's and to my surprise, it's been around for 20 years: ¦it looks like it's new and hip to me. We knew we'd love it right away when the waiter brought over a margherita pizza, put it on the table and said, it was a mistaken order at another table and it was on the house, nice! I was duly impressed by the wines by the glass list which was truly global, Hungarian, Slovenian, Italian, you name it, very well chosen and fascinating wines. I enjoyed a dry Furmint from Hungary and couldn't have been happier. We tried the Sputini Tre olives/almonds/pickled vegetables, the salumi plate and several pizzas that truly satisfied. Hard to believe we still had room after all day dining but as they say, we have only one stomach to give!

So many other places are on the short list for Oakland, Commis, Pican, Dona Tomas, Cafe Van Cleef, Mua and one place that intrigued which was truly an old Oakland landmark would be a stop by Heinold's First and Last Chance bar at Jack London Square built there in 1883 from the timbers of a whaling ship. Appetite whetted!

The Importance of Cause-Related Marketing in the Wine Industry

Note: This is an updated version of a chapter I wrote in 2003 for the Wine Public Relations book called "Spinning the Bottle" the premise of cause-related marketing in the wine industry still holds true now more than ever and is a tenet of Charles Communications Associates to this day.

-Kimberly Charles

In my 20 plus years in the wine industry, working in both the imported and domestic wine arenas on both the East and West coasts, I have been witness to the largesse of the industry be it charitable associations, educational institutions, health related issues, and cultural endeavors among many other great causes. The Business for Social Responsibility organization defines social responsibility as "achieving commercial success in ways that honor ethical values and respect people, communities and the natural environment." The wine industry's connection to nature coupled with the diversity of backgrounds of people working within the business naturally attracts people who are generous of spirit and who celebrate friendship, sharing and giving. Philanthropy is an organic extension of this philosophy and it has been and will continue to be a great platform from which to launch wine marketing programs.

It is important to note at this point that creating a cause around a brand is not an end in itself. If a cause-related program does not help impact sales, it has failed. Oftentimes, public relations and marketing professionals become self-congratulatory over the merits of a really creatively designed program, but unless it helps sell cases, it will be difficult to justify the investment in public relations. When a program is carefully crafted with both rational and emotional drivers, it can have more impact on sales than price incentives, advertising and other common tricks of the trade.

When executed well, these programs have resonance and impact when they truly connect with a brand's essence. Two such programs are illustrated here representing a successful integration of either the brand's name and identity, the personalities behind the winemaking or the vision of the principals who owned the winery.

The Environment

Perhaps one of the biggest challenges the wine industry is facing in the 21st century is how to manage its role as a vital, growing agricultural business that inherently wrestles with environmental issues everyday in light of its water use, erosion control, herbicide/pesticide use, labor issues among many other elements that have an impact on the environment. Recognizing this early on, Sequoia Grove Winery in Rutherford, Napa Valley realized that raising the consciousness of consumers of wine about the need to preserve and protect our environment was of utmost importance. In the early 1990s, long before the sustainability movement had gained momentum within the wine industry, Sequoia Grove, together with its partner and marketer Kobrand Corporation, devised a program that targeted the restoration of trails in the Sequoia Kings-Canyon National Park in Northern California.

To put the program in context, it is important to note some of the challenges the winery was facing at the time. Its delicious estate and Napa designated Cabernets and Chardonnays were receiving great accolades, however, the winery was competing with more established "big gun" names in the Rutherford district and needed a creative program to gain entree into top accounts. Taking inspiration from the grove of majestic 100-year old Sequoia trees that graced the property, we designed a program that partnered with the National Parks and Conservation Program. The NPCA works on local, regional and national levels to help preserve and restore the national park system.

The name association of the park and the wine made it a clear connection with the brand, and consumers were asked to send in their Sequoia Grove corks to help restore the trails in the park. The program consisted of a campaign both on and off premise that described Sequoia Grove's involvement in the NPCA through shelf talkers, bottle-neckers, posters, menu cards and a full court press program. It was such a "natural" fit that it caught the eye of the Hyatt Hotel group, who decided to make the program part of its national hotel restaurant campaign. The only hitch to the program was that the winery was inundated with corks coming back in the recycled envelopes provided.such a headache to have!

Health & Wellness

Ehler's Estate is a winery founded in Napa by Sylviane Leducq and the late Jean Leducq who first purchased vineyard land in Napa in 1987. In 2001 they reunited the original 1886 Ehler's Estate vineyard and winery property by buying the remaining 30-acre parcel comprising the estate. The Leducq's had sold their commercial businesses in 1997 and created a trust to benefit the Leducq Foundation, which supports cardiovascular research. Today it is the third largest medical research foundation in the world and the largest dedicated to one cause. Jean and Sylviane chose cardiovascular research as the focus as they knew it to be the leading cause of death worldwide and they wanted to help fund ground-breaking research to seek answers and solutions to this endemic problem.

A portion of the proceeds of the sales of Ehler's Estate wines go towards the foundation. The story is told simply on the back label of the wines and the design on the front label subtly reflects a heart symbol integrated into the "E" of Ehler's Estate. A dedicated holistic communications and sales campaign has been developed to educate both trade and consumers and the winery will launch in the summer of 2003. The integration and integrity of the Leducq's philosophy and compassion into the winery's branding provides a great opportunity for a strong dialogue with the socially aware consumer.

A number of other great programs too detailed to elaborate upon here have met with success in the areas of scholarship, the arts and the welfare of those who support the wine community such as the farmworkers who are the backbone of the wine industry. Particularly in this time of corporate governance coming under great scrutiny, it is all the more important for wineries to demonstrate to their customers a sense of consciousness, integrity and connectivity to a larger picture. "A 2001 Hill & Knowlton/Harris Interactive poll showed that 79% of Americans take corporate citizenship into account when deciding whether to buy a particular company's product; 36% of Americans consider corporate citizenship an important factor when making purchasing decisions."

The future looks bright for the wine industry leading the way towards a more socially conscious enlightenment. Continued and generous charitable support together with programs such as the Wine Institute's recent launch of the Sustainability Code wherein wineries have an opportunity to adopt and grow with a sustainable business model for both the vineyard and winery, are indicators that the wine industry has an opportunity to create a business model that other industries can emulate.

Footnote: Since the writing of this chapter six years ago, the California Sustainabile Winegrowing Alliance is now moving towards certification in 2010. CCA is happy to be a part of the communications campaign to share that great evolution with the press and public.

Biking Through the Bay

No one wants to look like a tourist in their own backyard.

For my good friend Katie's recent birthday, we decided to rent bikes and bike from Pier 39 to Tiburon. A hearty brunch would await us at Sam's, and we would take the ferry back to San Francisco. The bike ride is advertised as a leisurely weekend activity that anyone can partake in! From the Blazing Saddles website

"It's easy pedaling on the new and scenic National Park Bike Path from Fisherman's Wharf to the Golden Gate Bridge. You'll cross the bridge on the sidewalk, then coast downhill into Sausalito for fabulous seaside dining before catching the ferry back to San Francisco. But if you haven't had enough fun, the ride only gets better from there! Visit some of the world's tallest trees in Old Mill Park and continue along the Bay to the picturesque town of Tiburon from where you can also relax on the ferry back to San Francisco."

Here, we look leisurely:

Then came the inclines....

What they don't tell you is that the "easy pedaling" to get on the GGB is in fact difficult, uphill, and alongside traffic! Fortunately, the GGB was lovely. It was not too windy and it was a gorgeous day. I think if I was driving on the GGB and watching myself slowly pedal my way to the other end, with the real cyclists blowing by screaming "LEFT", I would have had a great laugh.

Sausalito was also gorgeous and could not have been more cheery. I badly wanted to stop at Horizons and take the ferry back from Sausalito to Pier 39. But it was not going to be me, the girl with Britney Spears blasting via Blackberry from the fannypack of the bike, to throw up the white flag.

We finally arrived in Tiburon, pedaling up and down hills in residential Tiburon, not knowing if we were going to end up at San Quentin or at Sam's, which I was convinced was simply a mirage.

Shout out to Blazing Saddles for taking care of our bike rental needs. But don't count on them to tell you what you are getting yourself into. Why they give you a choice to wear a helmet or not is beyond me.

Another shout out to Emily for the great photos. If not for her apathy to appearing like a tourist, we would not have proof that we survived this feat!

Our amazing view from the Ferry....

Passion for Pinot Fireside Chat with Jordan Mackay

On April 8, 2009 Charles Communications team worked in conjunction with the staff at DeLoach to host a Passion for Pinot Fireside Chat to commemorate the release of Jordan Mackay's book, Passion for Pinot, A Journey Through America's Pinot Noir Country and to solidify DeLoach as a preeminent pinot producer in the Russian River.

The event was a great success with attendance from both the wine trade media, sommeliers and growers. As the event was away from San Francisco, many invitees had expressed their sincerest apologies for their inability to attend the event. The event featured a panel discussion, in which Jordan asked a series of questions regarding pinot noir and winemaking to a group of panelists consisting of Brian Maloney of DeLoach, Dan Goldfield of Dutton-Goldfield Winery, Adam Lee of Siduri Wines and Michael Browne of Kosta Browne Winery. The layout of the event consisted of causal sofa seating, but with a formal tasting mat to highlight each wine, and was very much conducive to encouraging audience participation.

Prior to the discussion, Jean-Charles welcomed everyone to DeLoach and introduced the concept of the afternoon. Jordan introduced the panelists and a freeform discussion followed on: trends of single clone production, changing styles of pinot noir in California, reactions to critics and writers on the trends of pinot noir, site specific challenges and accomplishments in growing pinot noir and the solidarity of the panelists love for the grape.

Six different wines were tasted during the course of the event. As guests arrived at the DeLoach guesthouse at 3 p.m., they were offered four different wines from the Russian River Valley from the wineries participating at the event. Once the discussion was underway, the guests were poured wines from four different appellations, and the winemakers were given a chance to discuss the select wines being poured. We purposely requested that each winemaker bring a wine from different and unique AVAs to showcase not only Russian River, but also the nuances of terroir and how it affects this varietal.

Wines poured at the event:

Kosta Browne Winery

1. 2007 Koplen Vineyard, Russian River Valley

2. 2007 Rosella's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands

Dutton-Goldfield Winery

1. 2007 Dutton Ranch Freestone Hill Vineyard, Russian River Valley

2. 2007 Devil's Gulch, Marin County

Siduri Wines

1. 2007 Keefer Ranch, Russian River Valley

2. 2006 Arbre Vert, Willamette Valley, OR

DeLoach Vineyards

1. 2007 Green Valley, Russian River Valley

2. 2007 Mast Vineyard, Redwood Valley

Overall, the event went very well. We received numerous comments on the appealing layout and style of the event. Attendees appreciated the casual fireside set up and earnestness of the winemakers' discussions. We also received a number of comments on how nice the DeLoach Guesthouse was and the hospitality that they received while there. Press was interested and happy to familiarize themselves with the DeLoach pinots, and we were told by some press that they were not familiar with the extensive pinot noir program that was in place at DeLoach. The wines showed very well and allowed attendees to catch a glimpse of the talent of the winemaking team at DeLoach.

Thanks to everyone at DeLoach who helped on this project. We really appreciate it!

Paying it forward with the help of San Francisco Food Bank

I love everything about the holidays. Christmas music, holiday decorations, buying people presents, eating, drinking, and being merry- I love it all! And the city with its decorations and lights is just so charming. But I have to admit that amidst all of the shopping and holiday parties I have a tendency to indulge a little bit too much and get wrapped up in the fabulousness of it all. But over the past few days, efforts on the part of some very hardworking and generous people have given me some perspective and inspiration to pay it forward. Dine Out Against Hunger

Owners Mike Pierce & Scott Youkilis of Maverick in the Mission have spearheaded a great initiative called ‘Dine Out Against Hunger.’ On Thursday, December 18th, along with 12 other Mission restaurants, Maverick is donating 10% of total dinner sales to the San Francisco Food Bank. Maverick is also offering guests that make a donation to the San Francisco Food Bank a 10% discount off of their bill.

The San Francisco Food Bank deserves a special shout out for the incredibly effective work that they do every day, but especially during the holidays. SFFB supplies food to over 600 food programs operated by partnering community service agencies and food pantries throughout the City. Like many other non-profit orgs, their individual and corporate donations are lower than usual, as are food supplies, due to strained economic times and high food costs. Children are especially affected by the work of the Food Bank. A tidbit I found compelling is that less than 20% of the people receiving food assistance are homeless.

I hope you'll consider Dining Out on the 18th to support the SFFB. Maybe I'll see you at one of the participating restaurants: Maverick* A16 Americano Andalu Caffe Sociale Delfina Destino Foreign Cinema Incanto Kuleto's Magnolia Range Serpentine Slow Club SPQR