Tales from the Dining Table: Let the Entertaining Season Begin!

I've always loved entertaining, regardless of the time of year. However, late fall and the Holiday season inevitably brings out the party spirit in everyone. For about four (long) years now, I've wanted to host a "Harvest Party". After pouring over the glossy food and wine magazines portraying great friends gathered around a 20 person table in the middle of a vineyard, toasting the good life, I thought: "I want one!" I like to think we all deserve to celebrate harvest, whether our fingernails are stained purple or not. Lucky for my conscience, I had a winemaker friend who had just finished harvest. So I decided instead of Thanksgiving this year, I would host a harvest dinner. That way, I could braise lamb instead of roast a turkey. I invited 10 friends and told them we would celebrate by eating a grandiose, food magazine-enviable meal, while drinking the bounty of the season. Plus, I always like a good kitchen challenge.

The problem was, I didn't know where to start and I had very little guidance besides my imagination. I envisioned an absurdly long, beautiful wooden table filled with fresh cut flowers. And not just any flowers, but the rustic, charming ones that you feel horrible cutting from the garden but look so good. Another problem was, I didn't have a proper dining room, let alone a 30 foot wooden dining table and November is not wild flower season. So I went back to basics. I used the Rules of Entertaining 101- which I am excited to share with you in hopes that your next big dinner party is seamless.

I created a menu that was both comforting and autumnal, including ingredients of the season, but avoided Thanksgiving classics. I chose both local and exotic ingredients to keep it interesting and made a braising sauce with my friend's Syrah. I wanted to take advantage of our perfect little place on Earth called San Francisco, where persimmons and fresh goat cheese are readily available. I went in blindly with a ton of enthusiasm, and I came out with a huge ego and a stuffed belly. The very least I can do now, is offer you some tips I learned:

Part 1: Cocktails, Cheese, Appetizers and First Course.

Rule 1: Have a signature drink ready when guests arrive.

Not only does this ensure guests are immediately happy, but allows you, as a host to finish your last minute preparations in peace. It gives the illusion that everything is under control and you're 'thrilled' they were on time. (Which, as a side note, never happens with my friends, thankfully.) Plus, people feel sexy holding a classic cocktail. I went with a Blackberry & Cabernet Mojito. This drink was inspired by a cocktail that is on Cantina's drink menu made with cachasa. I happened to have a bottle of Bacardi (why does Bacardi always appear in my liquor cabinet, but I never buy it?) and a ton of mint left over from another dish- so Rule 1.5: use what you have in the house! The cocktail has a dramatic purple-red color that is festive without being a "pink drink" AND you can make it ahead of time and not have to worry about shaking each drink separately.

Rule 2: Put out cold appetizers to keep guests busy and happy while you're fretting over the fact that the main dish is still two hours away from being done.

Remember, appetizers don't have to be elaborate, they just have to taste good. I love cheese (perhaps this diatribe should be a separate post.) I like to serve it before the meal because, although I love the French, I never have room for cheese at the end of a meal. We are so lucky in San Francisco to have a truly amazing selection of artisanal cheeses. For this meal I went to Rainbow Grocery. Ahhh Rainbow, such a happy, happy place. I personally like to select three choices, each varying in texture and flavor. I went with a goat's milk aged gouda that was bright white and firm textured, a medium creamy, salty, local blue from Pt. Reyes and a very creamy, cow's milk triple cream from Australia. The triple cream was hands down, the favorite (and the one that is not in the picture...) It was a Seal Bay Triple Cream from King Island Dairy and it was sooo rich and gooey and true to its triple cream name. I am drooling. It tasted so good that you kind of felt you shouldn't be eating it.

Rule 3: Offer something unique, rare or out-of-the-ordinary to your guests. If people feel like they are getting something special, they'll inevitably be drawn to the dinner. The first time I had Chez Panisse's nettle souffle I was hooked. I had never had anything like it, and to this day, haven't been able to reproduce it at my house. My great French friends Pascal & Lilie, brought a "jar" of foie gras from their recent trip back to Paris to see the family. The darling little jar had one of those rustic pop tops like the old sealing bottles. There is simply no time for moral discussion when it is sitting on your table staring at you in all its creamy goodness. Some guests had never had foie gras at home. It was really special, and really delicious. It was paired with a perfect sweet wine from the Loire. This was the first wine to stump the group in its brown bag. It had beautiful acidity like a great Sauternes, but we were assured it was not. It had apricot and orange blossom bursting out of the glass, like a Muscat or Tokaji, but to no avail. The rich, oily texture belied the mineral backbone... of course, the Loire. How could I be so daft? It was a really pretty Coteaux du Layon made from botrytised Chenin Blanc.

Rule 4: Serve GREAT BREAD. There are plenty of bakeries that sell good fresh baguettes. Ask one of your guests to bring a couple over if you can't run out to get some. It is so worth it.

Rule 5: Make something that smells really good while guests are grazing.

After the cheese and foie gras course, I served bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with chorizo. This is a classic tapa in Spain and a perfect hot appetizer course. It makes your house smell like bacon, and you know how people are with bacon. You can stuff and roll them ahead of time and they look so irresistible on the plate. I've found in my trials that it can be tricky to get all sides crispy when you have long toothpicks holding them together. My brilliant sous chef came up with a great idea: use long kebab sticks to hold about 5 together and then just snip the wood in between each one... voila- perfect sized toothpicks.

Rule 6: If you are going to attempt to do a soup course, make the soup the night before. The soup will not only have better flavor, but you'll save yourself two hours prep time and a ton of dishes that day. I chose to make a carrot and roasted red pepper soup. Go the distance and pour the soup through the sieve. Yes, it takes extra time and it is messy, but the velvety, silky texture is what differentiates your dinner party soup from the hearty, chunky lunch version. Add a bit of creme fraiche or whipped heavy cream with cilantro on top for the final touch. I found these really cute edible flowers that I was so excited to add to the presentation. In the end, I forgot of course. I found the bright flavors of carrot and red pepper to be a really nice starter course.

Rule 7: This is just a personal rule, but I ask everyone to bring one fascinating or delicious bottle of wine, but they must bring it in a brown bag. I love brown-bagging. To taste a wine without already having a preconceived notion or bias really allows you and your guests to enjoy it. It's fun and playful to guess the wines. I asked each person to recommend which course their bottle be paired with. It was a smashing success. I couldn't have arranged a better pairing. Note the brown bag in the photo to the right ---> that was a Priorat. More details on the pairing in Part 2. And as for the beautiful gardenia in my hair? That was a gift from the nice flower shop man who said a hostess needed a flower in her hair if she was going to have such a big party. I wouldn't say I needed it, but it definitely made my night. I blamed any wrong brown-bag guesses on the fragrance from my flower...

Read Part 2: The main course, the wine pairings, the battles of the brown bag, the abandoned salad and the dessert.

- Kendall

The Importance of Cause-Related Marketing in the Wine Industry

Note: This is an updated version of a chapter I wrote in 2003 for the Wine Public Relations book called "Spinning the Bottle" the premise of cause-related marketing in the wine industry still holds true now more than ever and is a tenet of Charles Communications Associates to this day.

-Kimberly Charles

In my 20 plus years in the wine industry, working in both the imported and domestic wine arenas on both the East and West coasts, I have been witness to the largesse of the industry be it charitable associations, educational institutions, health related issues, and cultural endeavors among many other great causes. The Business for Social Responsibility organization defines social responsibility as "achieving commercial success in ways that honor ethical values and respect people, communities and the natural environment." The wine industry's connection to nature coupled with the diversity of backgrounds of people working within the business naturally attracts people who are generous of spirit and who celebrate friendship, sharing and giving. Philanthropy is an organic extension of this philosophy and it has been and will continue to be a great platform from which to launch wine marketing programs.

It is important to note at this point that creating a cause around a brand is not an end in itself. If a cause-related program does not help impact sales, it has failed. Oftentimes, public relations and marketing professionals become self-congratulatory over the merits of a really creatively designed program, but unless it helps sell cases, it will be difficult to justify the investment in public relations. When a program is carefully crafted with both rational and emotional drivers, it can have more impact on sales than price incentives, advertising and other common tricks of the trade.

When executed well, these programs have resonance and impact when they truly connect with a brand's essence. Two such programs are illustrated here representing a successful integration of either the brand's name and identity, the personalities behind the winemaking or the vision of the principals who owned the winery.

The Environment

Perhaps one of the biggest challenges the wine industry is facing in the 21st century is how to manage its role as a vital, growing agricultural business that inherently wrestles with environmental issues everyday in light of its water use, erosion control, herbicide/pesticide use, labor issues among many other elements that have an impact on the environment. Recognizing this early on, Sequoia Grove Winery in Rutherford, Napa Valley realized that raising the consciousness of consumers of wine about the need to preserve and protect our environment was of utmost importance. In the early 1990s, long before the sustainability movement had gained momentum within the wine industry, Sequoia Grove, together with its partner and marketer Kobrand Corporation, devised a program that targeted the restoration of trails in the Sequoia Kings-Canyon National Park in Northern California.

To put the program in context, it is important to note some of the challenges the winery was facing at the time. Its delicious estate and Napa designated Cabernets and Chardonnays were receiving great accolades, however, the winery was competing with more established "big gun" names in the Rutherford district and needed a creative program to gain entree into top accounts. Taking inspiration from the grove of majestic 100-year old Sequoia trees that graced the property, we designed a program that partnered with the National Parks and Conservation Program. The NPCA works on local, regional and national levels to help preserve and restore the national park system.

The name association of the park and the wine made it a clear connection with the brand, and consumers were asked to send in their Sequoia Grove corks to help restore the trails in the park. The program consisted of a campaign both on and off premise that described Sequoia Grove's involvement in the NPCA through shelf talkers, bottle-neckers, posters, menu cards and a full court press program. It was such a "natural" fit that it caught the eye of the Hyatt Hotel group, who decided to make the program part of its national hotel restaurant campaign. The only hitch to the program was that the winery was inundated with corks coming back in the recycled envelopes provided.such a headache to have!

Health & Wellness

Ehler's Estate is a winery founded in Napa by Sylviane Leducq and the late Jean Leducq who first purchased vineyard land in Napa in 1987. In 2001 they reunited the original 1886 Ehler's Estate vineyard and winery property by buying the remaining 30-acre parcel comprising the estate. The Leducq's had sold their commercial businesses in 1997 and created a trust to benefit the Leducq Foundation, which supports cardiovascular research. Today it is the third largest medical research foundation in the world and the largest dedicated to one cause. Jean and Sylviane chose cardiovascular research as the focus as they knew it to be the leading cause of death worldwide and they wanted to help fund ground-breaking research to seek answers and solutions to this endemic problem.

A portion of the proceeds of the sales of Ehler's Estate wines go towards the foundation. The story is told simply on the back label of the wines and the design on the front label subtly reflects a heart symbol integrated into the "E" of Ehler's Estate. A dedicated holistic communications and sales campaign has been developed to educate both trade and consumers and the winery will launch in the summer of 2003. The integration and integrity of the Leducq's philosophy and compassion into the winery's branding provides a great opportunity for a strong dialogue with the socially aware consumer.

A number of other great programs too detailed to elaborate upon here have met with success in the areas of scholarship, the arts and the welfare of those who support the wine community such as the farmworkers who are the backbone of the wine industry. Particularly in this time of corporate governance coming under great scrutiny, it is all the more important for wineries to demonstrate to their customers a sense of consciousness, integrity and connectivity to a larger picture. "A 2001 Hill & Knowlton/Harris Interactive poll showed that 79% of Americans take corporate citizenship into account when deciding whether to buy a particular company's product; 36% of Americans consider corporate citizenship an important factor when making purchasing decisions."

The future looks bright for the wine industry leading the way towards a more socially conscious enlightenment. Continued and generous charitable support together with programs such as the Wine Institute's recent launch of the Sustainability Code wherein wineries have an opportunity to adopt and grow with a sustainable business model for both the vineyard and winery, are indicators that the wine industry has an opportunity to create a business model that other industries can emulate.

Footnote: Since the writing of this chapter six years ago, the California Sustainabile Winegrowing Alliance is now moving towards certification in 2010. CCA is happy to be a part of the communications campaign to share that great evolution with the press and public.

Biking Through the Bay

No one wants to look like a tourist in their own backyard.

For my good friend Katie's recent birthday, we decided to rent bikes and bike from Pier 39 to Tiburon. A hearty brunch would await us at Sam's, and we would take the ferry back to San Francisco. The bike ride is advertised as a leisurely weekend activity that anyone can partake in! From the Blazing Saddles website

"It's easy pedaling on the new and scenic National Park Bike Path from Fisherman's Wharf to the Golden Gate Bridge. You'll cross the bridge on the sidewalk, then coast downhill into Sausalito for fabulous seaside dining before catching the ferry back to San Francisco. But if you haven't had enough fun, the ride only gets better from there! Visit some of the world's tallest trees in Old Mill Park and continue along the Bay to the picturesque town of Tiburon from where you can also relax on the ferry back to San Francisco."

Here, we look leisurely:

Then came the inclines....

What they don't tell you is that the "easy pedaling" to get on the GGB is in fact difficult, uphill, and alongside traffic! Fortunately, the GGB was lovely. It was not too windy and it was a gorgeous day. I think if I was driving on the GGB and watching myself slowly pedal my way to the other end, with the real cyclists blowing by screaming "LEFT", I would have had a great laugh.

Sausalito was also gorgeous and could not have been more cheery. I badly wanted to stop at Horizons and take the ferry back from Sausalito to Pier 39. But it was not going to be me, the girl with Britney Spears blasting via Blackberry from the fannypack of the bike, to throw up the white flag.

We finally arrived in Tiburon, pedaling up and down hills in residential Tiburon, not knowing if we were going to end up at San Quentin or at Sam's, which I was convinced was simply a mirage.

Shout out to Blazing Saddles for taking care of our bike rental needs. But don't count on them to tell you what you are getting yourself into. Why they give you a choice to wear a helmet or not is beyond me.

Another shout out to Emily for the great photos. If not for her apathy to appearing like a tourist, we would not have proof that we survived this feat!

Our amazing view from the Ferry....

Passion for Pinot Fireside Chat with Jordan Mackay

On April 8, 2009 Charles Communications team worked in conjunction with the staff at DeLoach to host a Passion for Pinot Fireside Chat to commemorate the release of Jordan Mackay's book, Passion for Pinot, A Journey Through America's Pinot Noir Country and to solidify DeLoach as a preeminent pinot producer in the Russian River.

The event was a great success with attendance from both the wine trade media, sommeliers and growers. As the event was away from San Francisco, many invitees had expressed their sincerest apologies for their inability to attend the event. The event featured a panel discussion, in which Jordan asked a series of questions regarding pinot noir and winemaking to a group of panelists consisting of Brian Maloney of DeLoach, Dan Goldfield of Dutton-Goldfield Winery, Adam Lee of Siduri Wines and Michael Browne of Kosta Browne Winery. The layout of the event consisted of causal sofa seating, but with a formal tasting mat to highlight each wine, and was very much conducive to encouraging audience participation.

Prior to the discussion, Jean-Charles welcomed everyone to DeLoach and introduced the concept of the afternoon. Jordan introduced the panelists and a freeform discussion followed on: trends of single clone production, changing styles of pinot noir in California, reactions to critics and writers on the trends of pinot noir, site specific challenges and accomplishments in growing pinot noir and the solidarity of the panelists love for the grape.

Six different wines were tasted during the course of the event. As guests arrived at the DeLoach guesthouse at 3 p.m., they were offered four different wines from the Russian River Valley from the wineries participating at the event. Once the discussion was underway, the guests were poured wines from four different appellations, and the winemakers were given a chance to discuss the select wines being poured. We purposely requested that each winemaker bring a wine from different and unique AVAs to showcase not only Russian River, but also the nuances of terroir and how it affects this varietal.

Wines poured at the event:

Kosta Browne Winery

1. 2007 Koplen Vineyard, Russian River Valley

2. 2007 Rosella's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands

Dutton-Goldfield Winery

1. 2007 Dutton Ranch Freestone Hill Vineyard, Russian River Valley

2. 2007 Devil's Gulch, Marin County

Siduri Wines

1. 2007 Keefer Ranch, Russian River Valley

2. 2006 Arbre Vert, Willamette Valley, OR

DeLoach Vineyards

1. 2007 Green Valley, Russian River Valley

2. 2007 Mast Vineyard, Redwood Valley

Overall, the event went very well. We received numerous comments on the appealing layout and style of the event. Attendees appreciated the casual fireside set up and earnestness of the winemakers' discussions. We also received a number of comments on how nice the DeLoach Guesthouse was and the hospitality that they received while there. Press was interested and happy to familiarize themselves with the DeLoach pinots, and we were told by some press that they were not familiar with the extensive pinot noir program that was in place at DeLoach. The wines showed very well and allowed attendees to catch a glimpse of the talent of the winemaking team at DeLoach.

Thanks to everyone at DeLoach who helped on this project. We really appreciate it!

Feeding the Parents (when they happen to be restaurateurs...)

My parents recently visited me in San Francisco. Of course this was happy news to me. We've always been close, and the distance from my family has been the single downside to picking up and moving 1000 miles to be by the ocean, the mountains, Wine Country and fresh Dungeness crab. So naturally, I am always thrilled when they get to come see my home by the bay (oddly though, I grew up on bay, so it is not quite as unique, BUT, my bay was on Lake Michigan!)

So I was stoked (a word I did not always say) that they were coming. However, this inevitably meant that I had to do some planning. The most difficult and stressful task when they visit is not to figure out what we are going to see, where they are going to stay or what we are going to do, but rather where are we going to eat?? You have no idea the pressure. My family owns restaurants, so I grew up in a food and dining environment. My dad is a born culinarian and has always cooked big meals for us, my brother is a chef and my mom is the ultimate critic of efficiency and service in a restaurant. For these reasons alone, I cringe at inviting unsuspecting guests along to dine out with us. Let’s just say the phrase “We could have had a much better meal at home” comes up often.

Granted, San Francisco is a food-lovers city. It’s one of the reasons I moved here. But, I can’t pull anything on this crew. I knew it had to be something: new (they’ve visited many times before and we’ve had both great and really disappointing meals), something with character (stuffy and pretentious is the opposite of their idea of a great time) but ultimately something that has all the above AND great food. What did I come up with? Is there anything that fits this bill?

Here are the winners:

Happy Hour at Hog Island

This is a win-win situation. $1 local oysters taste like the ocean, your view is the San Francisco Bay and the ambiance and bustling crowd is always fun to be part of (if you have to wait forever, they let you drink while you're waiting.) Plus, my dad loves oysters… not something you often get in the Midwest.

Il Pollaio

I love this place. Nothing fussy, nothing fancy, just really good char-broiled, roasted chicken. Order some Peronis to drink, a large mixed salad (with the garbanzo beans) and a couple half chickens to share. Don't forget to squeeze all the lemons over the chicken. Did I mention I love this place? I knew my parents would too. It is our kind of place.

Canteen

Even though I knew I was doing well so far with the fun, casual and often dive-y spots, I felt like I should take the parents out for a nice dinner. (And by 'take them out' I mean: 'let them pay for me'.) Canteen was my refuge. The decor is kind of retro, cool so you don't have the schmancy dining room aura, but the food is always on par with this city's fine dining. Everything that was brought to the table was fantastic. And that is a statement that rarely comes out of my family's mouths. Yeah for me!! Success again!

So, I was on a roll and only had one full day and night left. What followed was probably our best meal-day of all, but then again, it is the experience that counts:

Farmers Market Brunch & Dinner

Primavera's Chilaquiles, with a strong Blue Bottle drip coffee, and a home cooked meal from the morning's farmers market ingredients for dinner (we made Pazole out of Rancho Gordo's amazing hominy!) There is something so San Franciscan about going to the market, buying ingredients for dinner that night, and spending that really sweet, golden hour before the sun goes down, eating cheese and drinking wine. And we had the comfort and ambiance of my new, darling apartment (with a dishwasher)...

Don't talk to me, I'm eBaying...

Having been slapped on the face with the reality of recession, I decided to set up an eBay account in order to get rid of all the junk (shoes that I never wear, sunglasses I can no longer pull off at my age, gadgets I never use, clothes that I'll never fit into...) I've amassed over the last few years. Although I am all for technology and trying new things, I have to admit that the experience of selling items on eBay can be very daunting. And it is not helpful that potential buyers/ sellers treat first time eBayers (such as myself) with the highest level of suspicion as if included in the box, is not only my "Pre-Loved, Gently Used, LIKE NEW Prada Patent Sneakers," but also a package containing gasoues fume just waiting to explode on their faces.

As an eBay-er with 0 credibility to my name, even the words "honor," "virtue," and "integrity" all fused into my user name, didn't help the barrage of e-mails from seasonsed eBay-ers asking me if the shoes were authentic:

Person A: Are the shoes authentic? Can you send me 30 more pictures so I can be sure of the authenticity?

Person B: WHY are you selling the shoes now? The timing is a little suspect.. hmm. JTILYK (just thought I'd let you know” in e-Bay lingo).

Person C: Name the sales person that helped you at the Saks Fifth Avenue store so I can make sure it's authentic, and also the cross street to where the Saks is located.

...

I was well on my way to selling my second pair of shoes, "Pre-Loved, Gently Used, LIKE NEW, ONLY WORN ONCE Gucci Sneakers - IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND, SOLD OUT EVERYWHERE, WILL SELL QUCKLY ACT NOW", when I noticed that the highest bidder was a first time eBay user with 0 credibility to his name. At first, I was opposed to selling to a first time user, because frankly we live in an ugly world, but than I thought, 'where's the love?' and with Marvin Gaye's song "What's Going On" blasting on my iTunes (Yes, I am well aware that Marvin Gaye wrote the song to bring end to racism, but if he were alive today, don't you think he would want to end the hate for first time ebay buyers/sellers?) I decided to send him a congratulatory e-mail. (actually, I guess it was more of a, where’s my money? e-mail.) What I got in response was so shocking that I almost fell off my chair upon reading the e-mail.

Here are some excerpts:

"hellow even thow ii did manage to win the silver gucci sneakers ii want to buy both your silber gucci sneakers and your red patent leather pradas

"

"o0ok ii will try and pay asap . . also fo you have any other shoes like these that you A willin to sell ?! if so then ii was thinkin mabey the more shoes ii could purchase from you then the more of an deal we could work outt"

If Obama ever needs proof of the failing education system in America, I could just present him these e-mails, and I’m sure he would declare code red right away! I know I'm no Harriet Beecher Stowe, or Gustave Flaubert (I read that he rewrote sentences over and over again until he got it just right), but I could not help but think, what was this dude thinking when he wrote these e-mails?

I started hyperventilating after I received these kinds of e-mails. I was convinced that I've been duped by some false eBay buyer out to get people like me, who just want to make an honest living. However, to my dismay, I was wrong. As the saying goes, never judge a book by its cover, he was actually really nice to work with (as in he paid right away), and I even learned not to be so suspicious of the world: that there are actually good people out there who just love sneakers although they can't spell to save their lives. Who knows, he might become my most valued customer in the future as I have 366660000023943820948209 more pairs of sneakers left to sell.

Swirl of the Moment: 2006 Bianco di Annibale